For most of the last century, the cousin of The Sleeping Mexican– The Cooking Mexican– was a design mainstay on the menus of many non-Mexican L.A. restaurants. In some cases, he vanished altogether, leaving only a phantom sombrero or serape.

For most of the last century, the cousin of The Sleeping Mexican– The Cooking Mexican– was a design mainstay on the menus of many non-Mexican L.A. restaurants. In some cases, he vanished altogether, leaving only a phantom sombrero or serape.