Here’s pioneering L.A.-based Mexican food champion Bertha Haffner-Ginger doing her best in 1914 (which was way more than most at the time) to debunk the myth of “Spanish” cooking, all while ignoring the colonial elephant in the room: “It is not...

Here’s pioneering L.A.-based Mexican food champion Bertha Haffner-Ginger doing her best in 1914 (which was way more than most at the time) to debunk the myth of “Spanish” cooking, all while ignoring the colonial elephant in the room: “It is not generally known that Spanish dishes as they are known in California are really Mexican Indian dishes. Bread made of corn, sauces of chile peppers, jerked beef, tortilla, enchiladas, etc are unknown in Spain as native foods; though the majority of Spanish people in California are as devoted to peppery dishes as the Mexicans themselves, and as the Mexicans speak Spanish, the foods are commonly called Spanish dishes.”

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